
Cider was the Island’s biggest export and the “national crop” well before the arrival of the Jersey Royal potato. The quality of both Jersey apples and cider was held in high esteem in France and the UK, but the industry eventually went into decline and only a handful of orchards remain today
Apple orchards and cider-making are an intrinsic part of Jersey history, having once shaped the landscape, culture and economy of the Island. During the early 19th century, no Jersey table was considered complete without a bottle of cider and apple orchards filled the countryside. Cider was the Island’s biggest export and the “national crop” well before the arrival of the Jersey Royal potato. The quality of both Jersey apples and cider was held in high esteem in France and the UK, but the industry eventually went into decline and only a handful of orchards remain today.
The first recorded evidence of cider in Jersey dates from the 15th century but it was probably made here long before that for local consumption. In mid-17th century Britain, when existing agriculture went into a decline, cider was seen as an alternative source of revenue. Orchards were planted and cider soon became the champagne of Britain and the national drink – the wealthy drinking vintage cider and the rest of society drinking farmhouse cider. In Jersey, the planting of orchards and cider-making grew rapidly once the potential for profit was realised and it developed into a thriving local industry. Until the First World War, cider was an integral part of day-to-day life in Jersey and commonly drunk with meals, particularly on farms.
In 1682, Jean Poingdestre wrote: “There is hardly a house in the Island, except in St Helier, that did not have an orchard of from one to two vergees, sufficient to produce an average of 20 hogsheads a year.” (One hogshead was the equivalent of 54 gallons). In his History of Jersey of 1692, Reverend Philippe Falle commented: “I do not think there is any country in the world that, in the same extent of ground, produces so much cider as Jersey does, not even Normandy itself.”
The extent of orchard planting had a dramatic effect on the rural landscape. Previously, cereal crops had been planted in large open fields. However, apple trees were planted in smaller fields enclosed by earth banks and hedges to provide shelter from the prevailing winds. Small lanes provided access to the fields and the countryside took on the familiar pattern that we know today. The proliferation of orchards across the Island is graphically illustrated by the Duke of Richmond map of 1795. Around 16% of the total land area was planted with orchards with more than a third of the parish of St Saviour being given over to apple growing.
As well as changing the appearance of the countryside, the cider industry also transformed the economy. Farms had been generally self-sufficient, growing a mix of crops and keeping a variety of animals to meet the needs of the family. Once the value of apples was recognised as a cash crop, corn growing was almost entirely replaced by apple cultivation and the Island was no longer self-sufficient in grain. So dire was the situation that in 1673, the States of Jersey outlawed new orchards because of the cost of importing grain to feed the population. Only trees that replaced existing ones could be planted.
By 1790, Reverend Francois Le Couteur, founder of the first Jersey Agricultural Society and cider expert, estimated that 30,000 to 35,000 barrels were produced annually – 20,000 for local consumption and the rest for export. In a report for London’s Board of Agriculture in 1815, Thomas Quayle described some of the local apple varieties: “The cider apple most generally favoured at present is a native species and bears the name of Romeril from a family of that name in the Island, by whom it was first grafted from the wild stock …The Noir-toit, a sweet fruit, and the Gros-Amer, rather bitter, are all Jersey apples, valued on account of their size and being good bearers. The Pain-Sauce, Rogneux and the Frechen or Frequin, a bitter-sweet apple, are also natives of Jersey, of esteemed quality but bad bearers. The Ameret-aux-Gentilshommes also answers the same description and ripens late. Each of these is still grown, but in small quantities; their fruit is mixed with the others, in order to give quality.”
Apple yields tend to fluctuate, with a good year followed by a bad one. In 1680, there were so many apples that the Island ran out of barrels for holding all the cider! By contrast, 1827 and 1831 are recorded as years of complete failure of the apple crop when even eating apples had to be imported from England. In times of plenty, the Island depended on immigrant labour to harvest the apples, most workers coming from nearby France. For a long time, these seasonal French workers were paid partly in cider and, as in England, large quantities were drunk during the working day, especially at harvest time. Stoneware jugs of cider would be filled from the barrel and carried to the fields. In the 20th century, the increasing mechanisation of agriculture made drinking at work both dangerous and illegal, but local farmers still supplied cider for the French workers, who came to pick potatoes until at least the 1940s.
Despite the high reputation of Jersey cider, by the 1860s the industry had fallen into a steep decline. Exports in the 1850s had averaged 150,000 gallons but by 1875 this was down to 3,000 gallons. Around this time, many orchards were felled to make way for growing potatoes, a crop with a more consistent yield. Exports of potatoes were growing rapidly and the development of the Jersey Royal potato in the 1880s was a very lucrative time for Jersey farmers. The Occupation years saw a slight revival in cider-making on local farms but in the postwar years, the land reverted to potato growing and a big storm in 1947 uprooted many of the remaining apple trees.
Thankfully, today there is a growing interest in cider-making and the more unusual local varieties of apples. A small orchard was planted at Hamptonne in 1991 and these apple trees now provide fruit for the annual cider-making festival. Over the weekend of the festival, visitors can admire the magnificent spectacle of tonnes of apples being crushed the traditional way, using a horse (the star of the show) to power the granite crusher. The pulp is shovelled out and transferred to the twin-screw press. It is then squeezed between sheets of hessian which are called ‘cheeses’ and the golden juice drips from the press into a huge vat. The juice is then decanted into barrels and sealed. Nothing is added to the juice – it ferments naturally over the winter and is ready for tasting at the next Cider Festival. Last year’s vintage is, of course, already available to taste!

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Find out moreCider Making
Traditional cider is made from a mix of bittersweet, bittersharp, and sweet varieties of apples. It is the balance between these that produces the individual taste of different ciders. This traditional cider is very different from many of the ciders sold in pubs today. The lack of sugar content meant that it had a drier – quite acidic – flavour.
Each maker had their own recipe, and this meant that there could be a big difference in both taste and quality. Poorly made cider could be sour, sharp and strong in flavour while the considerable strength of some local varieties could produce an effect like being kicked by a horse!
Because of its widespread production in the farming community, cider often formed part of a farm labourer’s allowance in the past. Where farmers were either unwilling or unable to produce good quality cider, casual labourers could be hard to get.
By the mid-18th century cider had become one of Jersey’s important exports and this led to the planting of sheltered orchards where there had previously been open spaces – by the early 19th century up to a quarter of the island was given over to apple trees. Later in the century, this export industry went into decline although farmers continued to produce for local consumption.
A common feature in most Island farms in this period was the circular, granite trough in which the apples were crushed, and the oak press.
A typical example of a Jersey apple crusher can be seen in Le Pressoir (the Cider Barn) at Hamptonne and is used annually for the demonstration of traditional cider making at La Faîs’sie d’Cidre.
Milling/Crushing the Apples
Once the apples are gathered, they are left for 2-3 weeks to allow some of the moisture to evaporate. This concentrates the natural sugar level in the apple which in turn increases the alcohol content of the cider.
As cider apples are hard, to extract the juice they first need to be crushed and then pressed.
Crushing or Milling is a slow process. The apples are placed in the circular trough where they are crushed to a pulp by a large wheel pulled around by a horse. It can take half an hour to carry out one crush. The troughs are usually made from granite from Chausey – the French Channel Island – because it is easier to carve than Jersey granite.
As the apples are reduced to a coarse brown pulp a couple of buckets of water are added to prevent the pulp becoming too sticky and unworkable; this also adds between 10 and 15% to the bulk.
At Hamptonne the crusher is used each October at La Faîs’sie d’Cidre when approximately 1 tonne of apples (80 bags) are crushed for each “press”.
Pressing
The pulp is transferred, using a wooden shovel, to the press. A layer of pulp is followed by a layer of straw, sacking and/or horse-hair cloth. At La Faîs’sie d’Cidre, sheets of Hessian are used. This process is repeated several times, making a layered effect. The pulp is known as “pomace” and the wrapped pomace is known as a ‘cheese’. A wooden ‘binder’ is used to keep the layers or ‘cheeses’ in place while they are being created. The weight of the layers causes the juice to flow.
Once all the layers are completed a large board is placed on top and the beam is lowered by turning the two screws simultaneously and the juice begins to run freely. As the juice is collected it is put into barrels, and the dry pulp can then be used as animal feed or fertilizer.
Various presses were used and the twin wooden screw press used at Hamptonne was copied from an 18th century example held in the museum collection. By the 19th century metal single-screw Presses were more common.
Fermentation
Once in the barrel, the juice begins to ferment, and sediment and froth is allowed to escape through the open bung hole. This process can take anything from several hours to days. The barrels are topped up with water to prevent too much air, which would ruin the juice. Gradually the froth changes colour from brown to white indicating that the juice is ‘working’.
This fermentation process can take a week or two in warm weather, or a few months in the winter. However, it was generally felt that a slow fermentation produced a better drink. Individual farmers often had their own methods for encouraging the fermentation process to work such as adding a handful of earth, meat, barley or wheat into the barrel. A small amount of beetroot juice could be added to make a warmer, more “pink” coloured cider. After initial fermentation the bung could be sealed with lime cement to keep out the air and encourage a second fermentation to occur over the next three months or more.
At Hamptonne after the cider making in October the cider remains in the barrels till the following year when it is drunk during the next La Faîs’sie d’Cidre.
Cider making has been a traditional pastime in Jersey for hundreds of years and many farmers have developed their own individual methods. This has ensured a wide variety of ciders each with their own unique taste. A “sparkling” cider can be made, by the addition of a small amount of sugar, but the cider needs to ferment in corked bottles.